GRANADA

Gorgeous, Glorious Granada

Glorious Granada! Our first stop on our Andalusian journey. We stayed in the ancient Moorish quarter of the city, the Albayzin, in a charming apartment, on a tiny street, with a spectacular view of the Alhambra. Right out our window, perfectly framed, we saw the Alhambra first thing each morning. Alhambra during the day. Alhambra floodlit at night. Alhambra, all the time. Incredible.

We were pretty high up in the Albayzin, which covers a hillside, so the lovely old city spread out below us and the Alhambra stood in the distance with the snow-capped Sierra Nevada mountains behind it. I easily imagined myself back in time, in the medieval city, when sultans ruled from their palatial fortress.

The Albayzin is a maze of narrow cobblestone streets and passageways lined with white-washed buildings and stone walls—an absolute joy to wander and explore. We frequently got turned around and lost which, of course, is awesome, because when you get lost in a place like this you inevitably find something unexpected and wonderful.

Suddenly, you come upon a small square with a church and a tapas bar; an ancient archway framing a view of the Alhambra; a lush garden behind an old iron gate.

The Albayzin, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is so well-preserved it still feels medieval. And mysterious. Especially at night and early morning, before the tour groups arrive.

Golden Floats, White Robes, Black Veils—and Big Crowds

We arrived in Granada during Holy Week—Semana Santa—when processions celebrating the Passion of Christ abound, day and night, along the widest boulevards and tiniest streets across the city. I knew tourists flocked to Seville for that city’s legendary Semana Santa processions, but I didn’t realize it is such a big deal in Granada as well. The city was packed. A little much for my liking, but the processions were fascinating. Well worth watching.

We kept coming upon them, including one that came down the narrow street just around the corner from where we were staying, late one afternoon. The procession started uphill at the Church of San Miguel Bajo, on lovely Plaza de San Miguel Bajo, and wound its way down the Albayzin to the town center and cathedral.

The Albayzin as seen from the Alhambra.

Semana Santa procession down a narrow street in the Albayzin. The children are near the front, the “ladies in mourning” near the end, behind the float with a statue of Christ on top.

I watched with a crowd packed along the edges of this little street as the procession slowly passed us. First came the penitents, in white robes and tall, pointy white hoods with eyeholes, followed by boys and girls in red and white vestments and then a massive, ornate golden float with a statue of Christ on top (carried on the shoulders of men concealed beneath the float, behind a curtain). A brass band followed the float and dozens of “ladies in mourning” dressed in black and wearing black lace veils (mantillas) came next. The whole spectacle was gorgeous, moving and utterly unique.

Magnificent float at a Semana Santa procession on Gran Vía de Colón.

Travel is about being transported, and Granada took me away at every turn—from its cobblestone streets and keyhole doorways to its Moorish teahouses and tantalizing tapas; its exuberant flamenco in “Gypsy” caves; its magnificent Alhambra.

I love when a city maintains a firm, proud grip on its past and yet feels so alive and vital today. That’s Granada for you. I can’t wait to return and lose myself on those ancient Albayzin streets once again.

Granada Guide

SIGHTS

The Alhambra at night as seen from our apartment in the Albayzin.

The Alhambra—At the top of all must-see lists for good reason. One of the most extraordinary places on earth. Massive fortified Moorish palace dating to the 13th century. A maze of opulent rooms and magnificent courtyards. Walls covered in fabulous geometric tile mosaics and ornate Arabic inscriptions in stucco. Sultans held court here. So did Queen Isabella, who met with Columbus at the Alhambra to grant him permission for his expedition. Plan to spend many hours here, between the palace and the magnificent Generalife gardens—both UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Book tickets online months in advance.

Glazed ceramic tile and Arabic script inside the Alhambra.

If you plan to use a tour guide anywhere on your trip to Spain, this is the place to do it. Our guide, Margarita Ortega Ortiz de Landazuri, brought the Alhambra and its remarkable history to life. The complex is so vast and rich in stories and detail that a personal guide takes your visit to a whole new level. Margarita is one of the best.

Royal Chapel (Capilla Real)—Final resting place of Queen IsabeIla I and King Ferdinand II, whose marriage unified the kingdoms of the Iberian Peninsula into Spain as we know it. They also expelled Jews and Muslims from the country, established the Spanish Inquisition, and sent Columbus off to pillage the New World.

The “Catholic Monarchs,” as they are known, lie in a crypt (viewable through glass) beneath marble tombs in an ornate Gothic chapel (1505-1517). The contrast between the opulence above and the austere crypt and lead coffins is striking.

Be sure to spend some time in the sacristy-museum, the last room before exiting, where you’ll find Isabella’s crown and sceptre, Ferdinand’s sword and other royal possessions. Note: The Royal Chapel is attached to Granada Cathedral, but is a separate venue requiring separate ticket and entry.

Granada Cathedral—Monumental and magnificent… I am told. It was on our list, but we didn’t make it inside, this trip. We chose the Royal Chapel over the Cathedral. Wise decision. I’ve seen many cathedrals, but the lavish gothic chapel built to bury and revere royalty is something unique.

A stroll through the Albayzin. Getting lost is half the fun.

Albayzin—Granada’s ancient Arab quarter. A labyrinth of narrow streets and narrower passageways built on a steep slope facing the Alhambra. This alluring district of whitewashed buildings, small plazas, stone walls and cobblestone streets maintains a medieval mystique and exotic charm.

The entire Albayzin is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Take time to wander, explore, get lost; you’ll be rewarded at every turn. Better yet, stay in the Albayzin during your Granada visit and make the most of this special place.

San Nicolas Viewpoint (Mirador de San Nicolás)—Climb high up the Albayzin for a stunning view of the Alhambra from this lively square. Everyone does it and so should you. Try to arrive during the “golden hour” when the setting sun bathes the palace in an orange glow. Street musicians, artists selling crafts, hippies, happy tourists taking photos… all converge to create a joyful vibe.

Sacromonte—Home to Granada’s Roma or “Gypsy” community, just beyond the Albayzin and main sights of the city. A fascinating district of whitewashed cave dwellings dug right into a hillside, where some of the best flamenco can be found. We explored Sacromonte before a flamenco show, arriving early enough to climb some of the steep roads and then stop by a tapas bar to sip sangria and gaze upon the Alhambra. Sacromonte offered a completely different perspective of the palace than we’d seen from the Albayzin; a spectacular view from the other side.

MUST DO

Inside the Zambra de Maria La Canastera Flamenco cave, before the performance begins.

Zambra Maria La Canastera Flamenco—Phenomenal flamenco show in a Sacromonte cave dwelling. You’d be hard-pressed to find a more intimate or interesting venue to see this incredibly passionate art form. We sat along the perimeter of this small “cave-bar” (tablao), at times just a few feet from the dancers. Flamenco fascinates with raw emotion and expression through singing, guitar-playing and dance that’s punctuated with rapid-fire hand clapping, finger snapping and foot stomping. It’s enthralling—and the passion of these performers is profound and permeates this small space.

The venue is easy to get to by cab or bus. Reserve tickets in advance online. This show was one of the highlights of our trip.

Camino del Sacromonte, 89 Tel: 958.121.183

Hammam al Andalus (Arab baths)—We spent 90 blissful minutes in this beautiful bathhouse modeled after traditional ancient Arab baths—though in fact we completely lost track of time as we moved between cold, warm and hot pools and a steam room; paused for cups of hot mint tea; and lounged on heated stone slabs in this serene space. The bathhouse has an authentic Alhambra-inspired feel to it, with columns, arches and geometric Moorish tilework on the walls. Candlelight and soft Andalusian music complete the soothing mood.

The baths never felt crowded; just the right amount of people are allowed in at any given time. Book well in advance online. Massage packages available.

Calle Santa Ana, 16

EATS

Cafe 4 Gatos—Delightful cafe on a small plaza amidst the maze of the Albayzin. 4 Gatos was just two minutes from our Airbnb and we were so smitten that we ate breakfast there three times. The menu features ciabatta toast with choice of jams, cheeses, tomato and ham and fabulous open-faced sandwiches. My favorite—The escalivada: roasted eggplant, white asparagus, red pepper, a touch of balsamic vinegar, extra virgin olive oil and a semi-spicy pepper.

4 Gatos is a tiny place. We sat outside (it’s worth the wait), where we enjoyed the Alhambra view and Albayzin’s beauty. Menu includes coffee, teas, beer, wine, baked goods and more. Definitely a hidden gem.

Placeta Cruz Verde, 6

Carmen de Aben Humeya—One of the loveliest places we ate on our trip, and some of the best food. A carmen is a house with a garden in the Albayzin, some of which have been converted into restaurants. We had a leisurely, delicious lunch here; the kind of meal you want at least once when traveling to a place like Granada. Our dishes included: seasoned tomatoes with garlic and parsley foam; panko crumbed aubergine with sweet miso sauce and creamy honey; basmati rice with Ras el hanout, halal chicken, raisins, almonds and pine nuts; and for dessert…cold soup of white chocolate and dark rum, with red fruits! This carmen is directly across from the Alhambra so the view is spectacular. Be sure to explore the patios, paths and gardens in back. Reservation recommended.

Cta. de las Tomasas, 12

Breakfast at Cafe 4 Gatos, in the Albayzin.

Marchica Shawarma: The line, late one night. Worth the wait!

Marchica Shawarma—We saw a long line waiting in front of this tiny place late one night. “Must be good,” we thought. And, boy, was it! Acclaimed for its shawarma, but we had falafel in durum wheat wraps with all the fixings. Scrumptious and satisfying. A perfect cheap, filling, authentic, to-go meal.

Calle Elvira, 72 N.

Bodegas Castaneda—Lively old-school tapas bar. Awesome ambiance with cured ham legs hanging above the bar, wall-mounted wine casks and a couple of bull heads watching over the crowd. As with most tapas bars in Granada, complimentary tapa served with each round of drinks—or order off the menu. The jamon (cured ham) and manchego cheese, croquettes, and meatballs were all excellent. We stood and ate at a small table inside the crowded bar, which was fun, but there is also outdoor seating. The place was packed pretty much whenever we passed by.

Calle Almireceros, 1-3

Wild Food—Vegan restaurant serving innovative Asian-inspired dishes like roasted cauliflower with miso and mustard sauce, curry noodles, and pad Thai—plus, vegan pizza, burgers and croquettes. We took a time-out from tapas and needed a vegetable fix. Wild Food hit the spot. Sort of swanky setting in modern hotel near the cathedral.

Plaza Isabel la Católica, 5

Los Italianos—Fantastic gelato. Long line at times, but it moves pretty fast. For something different, try the cassata—a slice of ice cream cake with candied fruit in a cone. If you don’t know Spanish, it pays to check the menu online before you get inside. I was quickly (and unsuccessfully) trying to translate all the flavors and offerings on the menu board before I had to order! Tourist hotspot with good reason.

Calle Gran Vía de Colón, 4

Churros at Café Fútbol. Tea at teteria Dar Ziryab.

Café Fútbol—Famous for churros and chocolate or, more precisely, perfect, deep-fried pastry dough served with a cup of warm, thick melted chocolate. Dunk churro in chocolate. Take a bite. Sip some cafe con leche. Savor the moment. Repeat. Much more on the menu, including ice cream and other sweets. Somewhat slow and gruff service, but just roll with it. We sat outside in the plaza, which was lively and fun.

Plaza de Mariana Pineda, 6

Arab Tearooms (teterias)—There’s a stretch of teterias along Calle Caldereria Nueva, at the base of the Albayzin. Most of them seem to have the same Moorish vibe: cushions, candles, dim lighting, hookahs. We chose Dar Ziryab to relax one afternoon after hours on our feet. The extensive tea selection includes black tea with cardamon, apple, orange and spices; black tea with flowers, fruits, cinnamon and spices; and green tea with fresh mint, hibiscus, orange blossom and cinnamon. All served in silver teapots and Moroccan tea glasses and enjoyed with Arab pastries, dripping with honey.

Dar Ziryab: Calle Calderería Nueva, 11

Casa Torcuato—Established in 1932, Casa Torcuato is the real deal. Menu features Andalusian fare like patatas bravas (fried potatoes with spicy sauce ) and salmorejo (a thick, creamy gazpacho served with hard boiled eggs and cured ham). Known for its pork tenderloin and fresh fish. Large portions, good prices, nice wine selection, wonderful setting high up in the Albayzin, on a lovely little plaza, with a low-key local vibe. We dined outside by a small fountain under orange trees, then wandered home in the dark down unfamiliar, ancient streets. A perfect final evening in Granada.

Calle Pagés, 31