Spirited, Soulful Seville

At Bar Santa Ana, in the Triana district of Seville, where I got my cafe con leche each morning, the walls are covered with Madonnas and matadors. It’s mostly images of Madonna and Christ, with a section of matador photos—and a bull’s head mounted on the wall as well. Toss in two wood-framed Star of David windows—remnants from when this space was perhaps a synagogue—and glazed Moorish ceramic tilework—and you have a summation of so much of what Seville is all about. All right here in this one little restaurant.

Seville is a place of deep faith and fiery spirit; the passion of flamenco and a zest for life seen in tapas bars packed late into the night. It’s a city of colorful facades and magnificent tile mosaics—with a fascinating history where Muslims, Jews and Christians lived together in relative peace for centuries (until the Spanish Inquisition, of course).

Our Andalusian adventure brought us to Seville for four days (not nearly enough). We chose Triana as our base because we wanted a cool area away from the tourist throngs. Triana, the lively barrio across the river from the city center, was historically the working class neighborhood where Seville’s ceramic tiles were made. While most of this once thriving industry has moved elsewhere, Triana maintains an authentic local vibe.

A golden float from a Holy Week (Semana Santa) procession in Triana and one of the costaleros who helps carry it down the streets. The Sailors’ Chapel (La Capilla de los Marineros) on Calle Pureza.

We stayed in an Airbnb on Calle Pureza, a block from the river and minutes by foot from fabulous Triana Market. Our stretch of Calle Pureza was fantastic. There were several tapas spots on the block; we saw a wonderful flamenco show at a small theater next door to our apartment building; we had a lovely little church across the street and a historic one—Iglesia de Santa Ana—built in the 13th century and known as the Cathedral of Triana—on the corner. (Bar Santa Ana, where I got my morning coffee, is across from the cathedral.)

We were particularly thrilled to have the market so close. It’s a bustling scene of fishmongers, butchers, bakers, produce and prepared food vendors, and more. The perfect place to get something to cook during your stay or meals to go.

Triana Market stands on the site of Castillo San Jorge, a medieval fortress that served as the headquarters and prison for the Spanish Inquisition. It’s well worth a visit to the excavated ruins and small museum, which provide a good overview of the history and tragedy of the site.

While tourists congregate at the market, the ceramic shops and the Calle San Jacinto pedestrian mall, the area beyond remains ripe for exploration. As you walk Calle Pureza and Calle Castilla, the restaurants, bars, tabernas, and tapas spots just keep coming. One evening we walked deep into the district—way off the beaten path—and dined at Puratasca. A great find; one of best meals of our trip. You could easily spend weeks eating your way across Triana. 

Iberian ham (jamon) at Triana Market.

Puenta de Isabel II (Triana Bridge), looking across the Guadalquivir River toward Triana.

The Guadalquivir River is a highlight of any Triana stay. Stroll Calle Betis or sit on the riverbank and take in the cathedral and other sights across the water. Watch the kayaks, sculls and paddleboards pass by. Better yet, grab a paddle and join in. There are several outfitters nearby.

Triana is special. I will stay here whenever I visit Seville. We walked pretty much everywhere we wanted to go each day from our apartment. Just 20 to 30 minutes, across the Triana Bridge, to the cathedral and Alcazar (royal palace); the bullring, even closer; Maria Luisa Park and Plaza de España a longer, lovely walk along the river. 

We spent full days exploring this fascinating, colorful, vibrant city. Then each night, happily, it was time to turn in in Triana.

A Treasure Trove of Antique Tiles

In a dusty corner shop on Calle Feria, you’ll find stacks of vintage tiles—some dating back centuries. If you want a real piece of Seville rather than a brand new tile made for tourists, make your way here.

When I stepped into Ceramica Nazaret, I was in heaven. I spent nearly an hour digging through old tiles rescued from buildings and parks. Some tiles had geometric patterns, others more flowery and figurative designs. Many still had dried cement on back. All of them felt substantial in my hands: heavy in weight, and with character and history as well. 

Most showed their age. A chip here. A scratch there. Imperfections that made them perfect artifacts from this incredible city, which is famous for its glazed ceramic tiles.

The shop owner, Antonio, does not speak English. I do not speak Spanish. But I had Google Translate and some nifty hand gestures; he had a large calculator and some homemade catalogs of his collection to turn to. We were able to communicate.

When I showed him a tile that interested me and asked, “How old?” he punched in the year on his calculator. When I asked, “How much?” same thing.

I picked out a few fantastic geometric pieces then fell in love with some small figurative tiles that portray scenes from Don Quixote. Antonio told me that all of these tiles were from the 1920s and came from Maria Luisa Park, the city’s largest, magnificent greenspace, which is filled with tile-covered benches, fountains and pavilions.

I returned the next day—a quick stop to see what else I might find (because I was completely enthralled by this place). When I picked up a tile fragment that was clearly quite old, Antonio’s eyes lit up. He punched in 1500 on his calculator (the year, not the price!). My eyes lit up too. “Very special,” he said in broken English. I had to have it.

There is no comparison between these old tiles and the new ones in Triana’s tile shops. These antique pieces have such soul. I feel like I have a real part of Seville with me here at home.

The brand new tiles are less expensive and make nice souvenirs or gifts to bring back to friends and family. But for the real thing, Ceramica Nazaret is the place.

My pieces ranged from 15 Euros to 45 Euros for the 1500s fragment. Reasonable prices and treasures all.

Ceramica Nazaret, 15 Calle Feria

Seville Guide

EATS

Triana Market—I was drawn to the stalls selling Iberian ham, olives, cheese, spices, olive oil, wine and sherry…all the wonderful things Andalusia’s known for. But the market also has fabulous butchers and fishmongers and amazing produce stands. If you’re staying someplace where you can cook a meal, this is the market to visit. It’s also the perfect place to pull together a picnic lunch or grab a bite at one of several restaurants (see Obrador La Osa and Pasteleria Bocasu, below).

Most stalls close at 3 p.m., so to really enjoy the lively scene, visit in the morning or midday. Beyond the food, I loved the ceramic tile signs above each stall and became fascinated by the religious imagery everywhere I turned: gazing down at the produce, surrounding the fishmonger, above the poultry. Seville is such unique place.

The market is just over the Isabel II Bridge from central Seville and it’s built on the ruins of the Castle of San Jorge—seat of the Spanish Inquisition. The prison ruins and small museum are worth a visit. Look for the entrance to the right of Triana Market.

Divine produce at Triana Market.

Decadent little cream puffs at Pasteleria Bocasu. Dessert at Puratasca.

Pasteleria Bocasu—Just try to walk by and not stop and stare at the little gem-like cream puffs lined up by the dozens in the Pasteleria Bocasu display case. And then try not to order one, or two, or ten! Bocasu are perfect mini-profiteroles offered in an assortment of flavors, beautifully decorated, often with colorful icing on top, glazed to a brilliant shine.

On any given day you might find pistachio, tiramisu, caramel, apple, mango, lemon, coffee, vanilla, praline, raspberry, chocolate, orange… Decadent little desserts—although we had some for breakfast, along with the amazing croissants offered here—and always with a cafe con leche.

Pasteleria Bocasu was the first stall on the right when we entered Triana Market. Lucky us! Bread, pastries, cookies, cakes, tarts and other baked goods available, too.

Located in Triana Market

Obrador La Osa—Wonderful home cooking in Triana Market—all made with local, organic ingredients by a super-friendly couple. Obrador La Osa’s stall is tucked off to the side in the market. Find it! We had lunch here, twice. A delectable selection of stews, soups, pizza, quiche, salads, empanadas, tortillas, fresh baked breads… You’ll have a tough time deciding, so order a number of items and share. Get it to go or have a seat and be served with a smile. Lots of vegetarian and vegan options—and very affordable.

Located in Triana Market

Puratasca—We had one of the best meals of our trip here, way off the beaten path, deep in Triana. Puratasca serves superb, creative Spanish and Mediterranean cuisine in a cozy setting on a residential street, beyond the historic district. We loved the truffle risotto, roasted pork taco, tempura chorizo “lollipops” with curry mayo, and “baked turbot with a bone broth reduction over quinoa stew with grilled leeks.” For dessert: mango and raspberry cream, with Oreo cookie crumbs (see photo, above). We had fun walking from our building through Triana at night to reach the restaurant.

5 Calle Numancia, Triana

Casa Morales—Man, do you feel like you’re in Seville in this place! Traditional tapas bar, established in 1850. Awesome ambience and excellent food. There are two rooms: one is the bar and the other a dining room lined with enormous old wine vats on which the menu is written in chalk.

The tapas menu is extensive. Try the meatballs, croquettes, spinach and chickpea stew and montaditos (small open faced sandwiches; basically bread with tapas on top). I had two plates of paper-thin slices of Iberian ham (jamón Ibérico) and manchego cheese. Honestly, I wanted to eat everything I saw being served to other tables, too.

Great selection of Spanish wines and sherries. Crowded, super-convivial place.

11 Calle García de Vinuesa

SIGHTS

Plaza de Toros—Or, more precisely, La Plaza de Toros de la Real Maestranza de Caballería de Sevilla, is the oldest bullring in Spain, and one of the biggest. However you feel about bullfighting, be sure to visit this fascinating place. Bullfights generally occur on Sundays from April through September. Almost any other day you can visit and explore this vital part of Spanish culture without witnessing an actual fight.

Seville’s magnificent bullring and a bullfighter’s costume in the museum.

The stadium architecture alone is worth seeing—from its impressive Baroque facade to its vast arena. I sat in the stands on a sunny Seville afternoon and looked out at the empty bullring: calm and peaceful—a perfectly groomed sandy oval enclosed by a red wall and encircled by arches. Such a beautiful space where such brutality occurs.

Plaza de Toros includes the Museum of Bullfighting (Museo Taurino), a fantastic collection of prints and paintings depicting bullfights and bullfighters from across the centuries as well as artifacts like matador costumes and capes. You can also visit the chapel where bullfighters pray before they enter the ring. Guided tours take visitors onto the actual bullfighting arena.

Triana—The super-cool barrio across the Guadalquivir River from the city center and main tourist sites. A must to visit and explore; better yet, make Triana your home base while in Seville. Known for its ceramic tile shops and wonderful market (Mercado de Triana), Triana exudes an authentic local charm. Walk deep into the neighborhood, down the side streets. Note the fabulous ceramic signs on building facades. You’ll find great tapas in Triana and flamenco, too. (See main Seville story to learn more about Triana.)

Seville Cathedral—I’ve never been in a cathedral that felt this massive—like a cathedral on steroids. The largest Gothic cathedral in the world, the scale of the place is astounding. I found myself turned around and lost a lot. And I mean that in the best way.

The Tomb of Christopher Columbus in Seville Cathedral.

Highlights include: the tomb of Christopher Columbus (Is it really him in there? DNA tests say: Could be!); the extraordinary golden altar in the main chapel (spectacularly ornate, with over a thousand carved wooden biblical figures); and, my favorite—the Giralda bell tower.

The Giralda bell tower was originally a minaret when a mosque stood on the cathedral site during Muslim rule. It was converted to a bell tower after the Christian conquest of Seville. To reach the top, you ascend 35 ramps that once allowed a muezzin to ride up on horseback, five times a day, to issue the call to prayer. It’s a great climb and the view across the city is phenomenal. I kept spotting rooftop swimming pools. Must be nice, in sizzling Seville.

Also visit The Patio de Los Naranjos, a serene courtyard filled with orange trees that dates back to the original mosque.

Real Alcázar (Royal Palace)—The tiles and ornate plasterwork here are incredible. For an azulejo-obsessive like myself, it was exciting to see this array of glazed ceramic tiles from across the centuries in the city that’s synonymous with them. During our visit, there were some really interesting tile exhibits in some of the rooms.

The Moorish palace is magnificent. Remember to look up at the ceilings; they are spectacular. And save plenty of time to explore the vast Alcázar gardens. They’re as much worth your time as the palace itself.

I loved seeing the two massive seats of ancient power, the cathedral and Alcázar, side by side in the center of Seville. Let your imagination journey back in time… I started out in the Alcázar, then made my way to the cathedral and ultimately to the top of the the Giralda bell tower for a killer view.

Maria Luisa Park (Parque de María Luisa)—We pulled together a picnic lunch at Triana Market then walked across the Isabel II Bridge and along the river to the park. It’s big, gorgeous and lush with gardens and exotic trees: the perfect place to spend an afternoon. Benches throughout the park are covered in colorful glazed tiles. So are pavilions and fountains and most notably, Plaza de España, the huge, fantastical public square along the northeast edge of the park.

Extravagant Plaza de España: glazed-tile balustrades, canal crossed by tiled footbridges, mash-up of Art Deco, Neo-Baroque and Moorish Revival architecture. What a sight!

Plaza de España—Grand, flamboyant plaza at the edge of Maria Luisa Park, built for the Ibero-American exhibition of 1929. Fanciful architecture and a fantasy of colorful tiles that cover bridges, balustrades, columns, lampposts and 48 alcoves, each representing a different Spanish province through maps and historical scenes. Walk along the plaza perimeter and look at them up close. We came upon a fantastic flamenco performance during our visit and watched for awhile. Plaza de España is definitely a must-see sight, but if it gets too crowded, just retreat into the park.

A tiled alcove at Plaza de España. The perfect spot to relax and marvel!

Castillo de San Jorge / Spanish Inquisition Museum—Beneath Triana Market lie the ruins of Castillo de San Jorge, the medieval castle where the Spanish Inquisition had its headquarters and prison for nearly three centuries. Today you can visit the site to see where heretics were imprisoned and tortured and learn about this dark period of Spanish history. 

When I visited, a contemporary art exhibition occupied some of the subterranean space—beautifully installed and integrated amidst the ruins. Seeing art in this infamous place made for a powerful and moving juxtaposition.

Castillo de San Jorge is right across the Puente de Isabel II (Triana Bridge). The museum entrance is just to the right of Triana Market.

Art exhibit at the Castillo de San Jorge Museum.

SHOP

Laurence Shand Prints—Fantastic little shop that carries vintage maps and prints, largely from Seville, Andalusia and elsewhere in Spain, but also from other parts of the world. Some engravings date back to the 16th century. Items range from pricey rarities to very affordable ephemera. I bought a 1963 schedule of bullfights at Seville’s bullring for 5 Euros. A great souvenir!

There’s a lot to look at here including architecture, equestrian, natural history, mythology, religious and botanical prints. The proprietor is super-nice and helpful.

42 Calle Bailén

Jueves Flea Market (Mercadillo El Jueves)—The oldest flea market in Seville, and one of the oldest in Europe, held every Thursday (Jueves) on Calle Feria. It stretches for blocks and is jammed with vendors, locals and tourists. Great for treasure-hunting and people-watching. Get there early. The market starts at 7 and ends at 2 or 3 p.m.

Local color, culture and costumes are on display at Jueves Market on Calle Feria.

Walking table to table and searching for great finds was a blast. But for me, the best find of the day was the extraordinary vintage tile shop Ceramica Nazaret. Once I stepped inside, I couldn’t pull myself away. (See A Treasure Trove of Antique Tiles, above, to learn more.)

Calle Feria is also home to excellent vintage clothing shops and Mercado de Feria, a historic food market.

Ceramica Nazaret—Vintage ceramic tiles—the real deal—some dating back centuries. Looking through stacks of old tiles and talking with the proprietor here was one of the highlights of my trip to Seville.

15 Calle Feria